First, lets just cover the basics. Bryce Canyon National Park in Southern Utah is stunning to see. Everyone should go.
But if you go, know this; there are lots and lots of viewpoints out over the canyon where the only thing between you and the abyss is a National Park Service railing. Now these rails are made with huge sandstone pillars and three 9 inch diameter log rails. They are pretty solid stuff. But if you have acrophobia, your eyes see the rock pillars and rails…but your brain stem knows they are actually made of paper mache’, and you are going to die.
The cortex is funny that way.
It’s interesting what kicks it off. Karin had no issues at Artist Point overlooking Yellowstone Falls. Why was that no issue, but as we were walking up to Rainbow Point viewpoint at the end of the road in Bryce Canyon National Park, she saw the trail, no rail and open valley. We were still 20 feet from the edge and Bam! that feeling of being swept over an edge came screaming back.
Here’s a nice photo of me looking at the view. Karin took it from about 12 feet behind me, where she was comfortable.
One the way out of Bryce and back to our trailer you have to do through Red Canyon and we were able to spend some time walking through their viewpoints near the visitors center. The colors are hard to capture with the bright sun and don’t do it justice like the naked eye. We had a great day of sunny weather and deep blue skies
Pick a hike or two that Karin can do (she has a bum hip issue).
We visited Capitol Reef National Park as our first big rock canyon.
We had originally planned to go to Moab this year with Dennis and Carol and some of their friends, but one Dan Stephens got sick. Get well Dan. We’ll save Moab, Arches and Canyonland National Parks for next year with all of you.
Given our great experience with Utah State Parks so far we looked South and opted to stay at Fremont Indian State Park at Sam Stowe Campground. It’s more or less centrally located to see Capitol Reef, Bryce, and Zion. The bonus is we wouldn’t have to move every day.
Being our first visit to this area we were really impressed with all there was to see not only at the state park but on the drive to the National Parks.
Capital Reef, like all the other national parks, the word amazing doesn’t do it justice. In the Pacific Northwest we have some pretty exceptional terrain but this just seems so much more stark and abrupt. Trying to capture it in photos was unsatisfying but try we did.
One cool and unusual feature at this National Park is all the orchards in the Fruita area, which is where the Park’s visitor center and main campground is located. Mormon pioneers were a little busy trying to stay alive 150 years ago, so they didn’t worry about creative names for places. They lived here. They grew fruit. “OK, how about we call it Fruita?” The cool part is that today the park rangers maintain the orchards…and park guests get to do the picking for their camping baskets. So we picked apples.
Key learnings for next time…
We’ll stay closer to the park or in the park
We’ll visit more than one day to see more sites
We’ll do a hike or two and take more photos
Fremont Indian State Park where we camped was created when they were building I-70 and as a result wiped out an old Indian village that had been there from the 300s to the 1300s on the hill above the freeway path. The state DOT wanted the hill to use for fill and base. It was also the early 1980s, and they made stupid decisions like that. The penance was to build a great State Park and Museum, keeping the artifacts they did find in the canyon where they belong.
It’s great to see the many petroglyphs and pictographs that are still in great condition. Sadly, several of the best ones have been defaced in some manner or another…people are such idiots.
The visitor center has a small museum of the known history of the Fremont Indians as well an outdoor re-creation of their home (half dug out and half covered with a ladder going down through the hole in the roof) that you can climb down into) and short canyon hike to some petroglyphs up close.
Our campsite is a short drive from the visitor center and we have petroglyphs a few feet from our trailer. Pretty cool. The campground is well kept and have full services. No cellular signal gets into the canyon though which after a week get a bit frustrating.
We were able to do some bicycling in the state park as well as a nice paved bike path that runs quite a distance along highway 89.
For our last day’s excitement we saw what we think was a baby Copper Back Rattlesnake (no rattle, maybe 12” long, ) by the public bathroom. Coincidentally, I read a warning about these a few weeks ago in a camping guide..September is the season for babies to hatch. I wouldn’t have seen it if I hadn’t stopped walking to turn and talk to Dan. When I turned back, it moved so I wisely kept my distance. Funny, when we got back from our ride two sheriffs deputies came by with a snake tool to move the little guy to more appropriate snake terrain. Scary if you dwell on it.
Snow was forecast in Jackson in few days which we took that as a sign from God that we needed to get South to Utah. The drive out of Grande Teton area to the south is amazing. You follow a winding river down to Bear Lake near the corner where Wyoming, Idaho and Utah meet. It’s beautiful, and will get it’s own trip some year.
Our first stop was a Harvest Host South of the Greater Salt Lake City area. We were sitting in the trailer parked for a night at the Rowley’s Farms Big Red Barn (See, HH is not just wineries) and we got to talking about how stunning it was up around Sundance, Heber City and such.
We decided to backtrack up to Deer Creek State Park, which is just at the top of the Provo Canyon on Deer Creek Reservoir.
We got two nights in their dry campground and another four nights in their full hookup campground just up the hill. Both were wonderful places to just park for most of a week and venture out to explore. The facilities were good and the view of Mt Timpanogos and the red foliage and the lake from inside the trailer was great.
One day we bicycled in Provo Canyon near Bridal Veil Falls, the next we drove up to Sundance Resort for a Fall Festival under the tents at the base of the ski lifts. This time of year those are mountain bike lifts. They also take people up to Ziplines up in the mountains. We may have to come back to try those. The Fall Festival was fine, but it’s clear that the clientele is of a different order than your normal town Saturday market. Everything was handmade and kind of pricy. But the women were lithe and sun kissed, the men were ruddy, handsome, and about to get on an important call, and the children were all wearing Hanna Anderson and amazingly clean for toddlers. Au Pairs are wonderful things.
I did find one thing I had to have. A natural amplifier for my cell phone. So, a retired gentleman who has taken up making no power amps for cell phone out of old radios, old telephones, old anything…or even just a cow horn. He builds a landing spot for your cellphone out of copper tubing slit open and lined with leather to prevent scratches. Another copper tube is soldered into this base right about where your speaker is on the bottom of your phone. This tube leads to some larger horn…made of horn, a funnel, or sometimes an old gramophone. The music makes it’s way down from your phone, through this gizmo, and comes out louder and usually brighter. Every one of them has a different sound since they are all different. Prices start at $20 for my cow horn version but run up to near a thousand dollars for some of the more intricate units. Sweet.
Another day we explored Park City, Heber City and Midway City, the towns up on the backside of the Wasatch. Park City is a resort, we where there for Wasatch Brewing Company pub. It was ok. Liquor laws in Utah still force them to sell 4% beers in groceries and pubs. (Going to 5% in November). This limits the range of intensity they can get in the beers. They were Meh. Go to state liquor stores not the grocery stores. They can sell you real beers (even the real beers of Utah breweries), along with wine and liquor.
We also took one day to take the narrow winding road up over the Wasatch Front and down into Salt Lake City to visit the Church History Museum which is right across the street from the big LDS Temple. We’re not supposed to call it Mormon anymore…they are doing a branding change. The drive was glorious in its red and orange maples and stands of birch trees some of them turning yellow. I’m sure there were aspens as well.
We wanted to stop into the museum as it’s one where our son Christian’s company, Pacific Studio, did all the displays a few years ago. We wanted to see his handy work.
The museum was interesting. It has a few actual historic artifacts but they are not the focus. They were there to give an opportunity for the Church to tell its origin story, in its own words.
The displays are designed as a timeline from Joseph Smith’s religious upbringing, awakening and forming of what became the LDS church, and through the early spread of the religion. It outlines conflicts with non LDS neighbors and how the church was persecuted in New York, Missouri and Illinois. The story then covers the murders of Joseph Smith and his brother in Illinois and then ends with the main church migration to Utah. Smith’s visitation by angels, gift of golden plates translated by Smith into the Book of Mormon, baptism into priestly authority by characters from the Christian Bible are treated as fact. The museum doesn’t go into great depth about what led to conflicts with Christian and secular neighbors as the church was spreading and why some disagree with certain parts of LDS teachings, even from within the church. But again, this is the LDS church telling it’s version of it’s origin. It does that.
Time for a change of scenery, so we hitched up, and finally waved goodbye to Henrys Lake State Park. It was a lovely place to stay.. We’ll be back to Yellowstone National Park, and we won’t wait 30 years this time. On to Grande Teton National Park.
These two are twin sisters and a lot of people visit on the same trip. How could you not? They are right next to each other, and fabled in their own ways. But they are also different. First, Teton’s road are wider. Ok, maybe not the lanes, but Teton has one thing Yellowstone mostly does not. Shoulders…wide ones.
One thought that struck me as a bicyclist driving through Yellowstone was that I didn’t want to be on a bicycle in Yellowstone. There were a few, but every time I saw one I thought, “Man, that’s a tough ride.” Sure, there’s a lot of elevation gain in the roads, but the tough part is that you have to do those climbs on the park roadway with cars, campers, trailers, and trucks all backing up behind you. They want by. There’s no shoulder. They have to wait for clear traffic to go around. Most do. Some get a little close. We were there in September when the traffic was a little lighter. In summer I don’t want to imagine how nasty it could get for a bicycle rider. Plus, there are bears, buffalo and moose to think about.
Teton was night and day different from a bicycle POV. From the North Entrance on, there was a wide, smooth, shoulder. Bicycles could ride 2 up and still be off the road. I could feel my bicycle self relaxing. When you get down to pretty little Jenny Lake you even pick up a paved trail that will take you the last 20 miles into the city of Jackson outside the South Entrance to the Park. Nice.
My second thought on differences in Teton vs. Yellowstone is on the view while driving. Yellowstone has amazing vistas that open up as you drive its narrow loop highways, but the best views can take some hiking down a trail. In Teton, there’s one main North/South highway (with a split in the South end) and running most of it’s way is Jackson Lake. And the parts that aren’t on the lake are along big meadows of sage. The point is the view of the Teton mountains to the West are always with you…and stunning as they rise from the lake or meadow straight up to their 13 thousand foot jagged peaks.
It’s stunning. As you drive along, you stop at a lot of pullouts to take photos. You stop because each new vantage point offers a new view…of the same mountains…and somehow you convince yourself that the view keeps getting better. I suppose it’s the same view really…but your brain is on mountain overload at this point and you get that “I wish we could all live in the high country. That’s where I see myself in 5 years” vibe going.
Speaking of living here. After a while, you will invariably start looking at those little booklets Berkshire Hathaway Realtors put everywhere. Side note on that. If Berkshire and Sotheby’s are the dominant realtors in an area then it’s highly likely you and I can’t afford to live there. Just sayin’.
We parked the trailer this time at the Gros Ventre Campground at the south end of the park for three days. It’s big, flat, and there are lots of loops. Some loops are for tents only, some no-generators, some with only electric and water. We weren’t sure we liked it at first, but after a few days using it as basecamp to explore the park, it grew on us…as long as we’re in Loop A, to the north. That loop has fewer trees, but better view of the mountains. We were in loop B this trip.
We were able to get the bikes our for the first time since we got the trailer for a ride near Jenny Lake. There is a very nice blacktop bike path from Jackson 20 miles up to Jenny Lake. The view of the mountains was exceptional and the much needed exercise was great. We considered riding to Jackson from our campground the next day but decided that getting our laundry done was more important.
There is an interesting museum just before you enter Jackson call the National Museum of Wildlife Art. the entire place is very well done. There are sculptures all over outside grounds and throughout the museum.
The building itself is beautiful and blends into the surroundings. The art was very good all through the museum.
Karin’s fav painting from the museum.
Dan’s fav painting from the museum.
We will stay longer than 3 days.
We’ll try to stay some of the time on Jackson Lake or nearby by RV park or just further north.
We will stay in Loop A at Gro Ventre Campground
We will ride more days and more places
We will play at a lake (in whichever lake or form that takes).
We will look for critters, maybe a tour? We saw one deer buck, and one moose (young, no antlers) walk through the campground…not enough.
Jackson, Wyoming. What can I say about Jackson. Well, it has nice stores for resupply. It has a decent brewery; Snake River Brewing. There’s a laundromat that has a little hole in the wall Mexican restaurant next door. Despite the many fancy Mexican places downtown in Jackson, I suspect that El Metate is actually the best, and most authentic, Mexican food in town. When we popped in for lunch, more than half the customers were dusty construction crews with large bowls of Pasole in front of them. I took the hint and ordered the same thing. It was some of the best Posole I’ve ever had.
We walked the streets in downtown a little. It hasn’t changed in the 30 years we’ve been gone. The town square park still has Deer/Elk antler arches at each corner and you are required by city ordinance to post a selfie of yourself standing under one.
The shops are one of two types (three if you count going out of business or grand opening as a type). They are either tourist traps selling cheap assed “I (heart) Jackon” stuff or they are high end jewelry or art gallery places that cater to the rich folks who flock here for the skiing in winter. They’re the folks who own those big houses you see on the hills and ridge tops approaching town. They don’t live here really, but buy summer homes so they can come in the season.
That playground for the rich vibe is what bugs me about the place. It’s the same feeling I get in Hailey/Sun Valley, Park City, Utah, and mountain resort towns in general. They are stunningly beautiful and everyone who visits has the “I wish I lived here” thought at some point. They are also places where our nation’s wealth and income disparity is on full display. When the amazingly rich have that “I wish I lived here” thought, they just buy a second or third house…or have one built with custom whatever. When the rest of us get that “I wish I lived here” thought we look at the real estate listings, see the prices, and that thought goes away, or we think…maybe prices will be lower one valley over.
Sit at a bar in Jackson drinking a local beer long enough and you’ll also wonder what you’d do for a job here? Everyone is hiring, but no one is paying much over minimum wage. You see young people working retail or service jobs in summer season. OK, that’s fine for college aged folk for a few years. You also see many seniors working those same retail/service jobs. That’s concerning. And in every one of these mountain towns, there’s no housing for workers. They often live a long way away and commute…adding to those nasty traffic jams in season.
To be fair, I have the same feeling when we sail into cute marina towns on our boat. They have the same vibe, and all the exact same problems.
It’s hard for us to believe, but it’s been 30 years since Karin and I went to Yellowstone National Park. After Tim Valadao’s wedding in Idaho, we headed East from Corral Creek Ranch in the Camas Prairie toward the world’s first National Park.
Being a little late to plan the trip, we knew we’d not find a camping site in the park. Not to worry. There are tons of state and national forest camp grounds just outside of the park to try. And if folks get desperate, there are also private RV parks. Not our cup of tea; but it’s always an option.
Everything in the park was full or closed but we found a great RV campground at Henrys Lake State Park in Idaho, just a 13 mile hop over a hill to the park entrance at West Yellowstone. From here It would be easy to spend a day poking around the park, and return at night to our trailer.
Day 1: Our visit didn’t start out so great. We went to bed the night before to snow falling and woke up to the same snow next morning. No further accumulation but still pretty cold. As we got to the park it started to rain. By the end of the day the weather had eased up but still pretty cold.
For our first foray into the park, we headed North, working our way up to Mammoth Hot Springs. Along the way we stopped at a hot springs or two, and marveled at the views.
One of the joys of driving into any National Park is that the speed limit drops. You get to slow down to 45, and not worry about people behind you. People are going to pull out to see things anyway, so it’s lovely that life slows down.
Getting into Mammoth ended up being a major pain. By 11am all the hot spring parking lots were full (shorter walk), and drivers were getting frustrated (including our own) so we cruised on through, and went up to Gardiner, Montana at the North entrance. We found a nice lunch spot then went South again, and finally found a parking spot near Mammoth.
It’s interesting to travel in the fall. There are fewer crowds we are told, but once there to wonder how bad it must be during the summer! The crowds that are there tend to concentrate in the most popular places…such as Mammoth. Still, we’re here, and found parking, walked the boardwalk around the the pools. Even with all us tourists it is still an amazing site as is the entire park.
Day 2: After the prior day we decided we needed a new strategy to deal with the crowds. Of course everyone says you need to get there really early to see the critters and miss the crowds. We took the advise and headed out early.
Our target today was Grand Prismatic Springs. We left our trailer at 7am. We weren’t the only one out early that day but the line was shorter and we did see a herd of Bison along the way much to Karin’s excitement (we only saw a deer the day prior).
We were pleased that lots of parking was available when we got to the springs. It was in the low 40’s when we got there so the steam was pretty thick and hard to see the actual springs. There are four large one in this particular site but there’s got to be 100’s in the basin. Steam was coming up all over the place!
By the time we left an hour later, the parking lot was full with cars and 4 tour buses, and the traffic backed up out of the attraction. Glad to be leaving.
Next stop was Old Faithful. Once we got there we found that the next eruption was due in 90 minutes so we headed toward the Visitors Center for an informational tour of the Yellowstone and Geyser Basin geology. Then off to the Old Faithful Inn for a coffee. The lodge was wonderful and charming. Lots of Arts and Craft furniture, the log structure itself and split log steps (none of them even!). Best of all we found we could watch the eruption from the upstairs balcony with our coffees. Old Faithful did not disappoint!
We decided to walk path and boardwalks above Old Faithful where were are dozens of other geysers and hot springs of different kinds. Their naming is pretty literal based on the shape of the geyser such as pork chop, ear, beehive, you get the idea. There was a much longer walk but Karin’s hip was starting to act up and didn’t want to get stuck in the middle of the basin without access to a car. We’ll get to it next time.
Day 3: Today was Yellowstone Lake and Grand Canyon of Yellowstone , and Hayden Valley loop day. We left early again drove past the attractions we visited yesterday. It was interesting to to see the tree regrowth from the big fire in 1984 (or 1989 check this date). lots of areas affected where you see the line where the new growth starts. Some other areas looked as if they they had more recent burns but the reseeding keeps happening, which is great.
When we first saw Yellowstone Lake it made me think of SE Alaska. It is huge. Trees grow up to the lakeside except where there’s a road. Not much beach to see or access. We did stop at the Yellowstone Lake Hotel and had a drink as recommended by our friends Shirley and Jim Runkel. Nice place.
Nearby there is a marina for fishing boats and Fishing Bridge RV park that will take trailers our size so we’ll try for next time to come here. It was closed for repairs.
So off we go looking for critters for Karin in Hayden Valley. We saw one Bison (so sad), but lots of birds along the lake and river (White Pelicans, Trumpeter Swans, eagles and other ducks I haven’t identified yet with plenty of Canadian Geese in the mix).
Now we come to the Canyon Falls. Yes, it is also amazing. You almost get exhausted from all of the wonderful sites! The day had warmed and clear blue skies. Just a great view.
Yellowstone National Park was all amazing in its sites and diversity. We will come back.
We will hope to camp inside the park if possible.
We will leave early every day in hopes of seeing more wildlife.
We will pick only one site per day to visit and do some hiking nearby to really experience the place.
We will stay more than 3 days.
We will be Bear Aware and carry our bear spray everywhere.
After a fun post 4th of July cruise over to Sydney, BC and Butchart Gardens on the back side of the Sannich Peninsula, we parked Endless Song in Anacortes, drove to Seattle to pick up our son Christian, and headed to SeaTac Airpot. The time had come to see the Caribbean…specifically, to see One Happy Island; Aruba.
This jaunt to the warm breezy island off the coast of Venezuela may sound more like a wintertime destination, and in a way it was. Just not our wintertime. More on this in a minute.
It all goes back more than twenty years when my sister first hosted a teenage Uruguayan named Antonio Bazzino as a foreign exchange student. He was a great kid, and as he was here for a year he went to all the family events and we all got to know him. After she got to know Antonio, my sister Rebecca and the Bazzino family said, hey…we’ve got other kids…you’ve got other kids. And for a number of years…there were a lot of kids coming and going. One of my nephews, Jared, went and lived with the Bazzinos for a year, coming back fluent in Spanish. Antonio’s sisters Victoria and Laura had their turn spending a year on Ashmead ranch in Idaho. My niece Leah followed her brother down to Uruguay, again coming back fluent in Spanish. Another Bazzino daughter, Clara, came for a long visit, not a year, but enough time for us all to meet her too. My sister, her husband Jeff and others went to Bazzino family wedding in Uruguay. You get the idea. Lots of fun family contact that continues.
So today, Alvaro and Fiorealla Bazzino have a big happy extended family at home (all those kids are growing up and making babies)…and some folks they are very fond of in the US. They also don’t like the cold of wintertime in Canelones, Uruguay. For years they have been escaping the winter cold by staying in, you got it, Aruba.
Now our wintertime trip is making more sense. We normally have a big family event/reunion/campout in Idaho in July. We’ve moved the Galena Summit around in some years. This year, it was a really big move….Wet Galena:Aruba.
So with 19 of our family coming, we needed a lot of space. My nephew Jared pounded Air B&B and found a three condo complex, each condo with three bedrooms, two bathrooms and a kitchen. It also had a pool, BBQ center outside, sand area for kids, and a rooftop lounge for adults. It was a ton of money, but divided by all of us….not so much. But the space was perfect.
What can we say about Aruba. It really is “One Happy Island”. All the folks we met were the nicest, and just wanted you to love their home while you were visiting. We did a lot of our own cooking, and we explored all the nearby beaches for snorkling.
The week was a social whirl, with some days and evenings spent at our condo with it’s pool, and some days and evenings spent at the resort where the Bazzino family was staying. Since the two locations were only 7 minutes apart by car, it really wasn’t hard to get back and forth as needed.
We also found the time to wander Aruba to figure out where folks made a living if they weren’t in the tourism industry; oil refinery and, surprise, aloe farming. We also found historic churches and lighthouses to climb, and restaurants where the locals go to eat. Yes, we’re talking about you ZeeRovers
So will we go back? Hard to say. The Caribbean is large, and there are so many other islands to explore too. But if some large group of our friends wanted to get away somewhere warm, that was easy…we’d be back to Aruba in a minute.
We spent much of August on the dock in Anacortes doing a few boat maintenance projects. That included a trip to Bellingham for bottom paint and a little fiberglass work to fix one of my navigational mistakes.
But one Monday, our friend Shirley said, “Hey, lets all meet at Scotts for dinner.”
Sure, it’s a 1.5 hour drive down to Edmonds, but these are our best friend. Almost all of us are retired and on the road…a lot. We don’t get to see each other as much as we used to. You don’t have to ask us twice.
It was during that dinner when David Huntsman said, “We’re not going to be able to take time off to sail the San Juan’s this year. Why don’t you sail down to Puget Sound for Labor Day Weekend. We could go to Gig Harbor, I’ve never been there.”
Now I was thinking, no, that will just get in the way of my boat projects.
But David said, “Hey, you’re retired. You can do anything you want.”
And the more I thought about it, it made perfect sense. I was thinking with my old, must get it done, brain. I am retired and if I want to sail to Gig Harbor to see friends, dammit, I can.
I also get to choose my own schedule. Which is why, after our dental checkups, Karin and I headed South on a Monday on Endless Song. We could hard motor to Seattle in a day….but we didn’t need to. We wouldn’t me meeting David and Gyung until Friday. We could go as slow as we wanted.
That first day we just plugged around in Rosario Straight, never losing sight of Anacortes. We checked James Island state park. No room on the dock? No worries. We’d cross back to Bowman Bay for a night.
Then next day we’d head for Port Gamble. As we sailed by Port Townsend, we called into Point Hudson Marina in Port Townsend just to see if they had any slips.
We knew they’d be full come Labor Day Weekend, but it was Tuesday, and they had plenty of room. I love this little Marina. It’s the best place to be when in PT. All the best marine services are right there, and it’s a short walk to downtown.
We were going to stop in Port Gamble the next day, but the wind and current was pushing hard into Puget Sound, so we just rode it down.
Side boating note. Whenever we’re out near the traffic lanes in Admiralty Inlet or Puget Sound we are always on the lookout for big freighters. They move fast and can be up on you quickly. When you see them, it’s easy to stay clear.
If you ever see a big freighter with the word ONE written on the side be extra careful.
All freighters will have a big rolling wake, but there is something about this boat’s hull shape that creates a wake like I’ve never seen before. This wake was huge, 12 feet at least. It was larger than any freighter wake I’ve ever seen on Puget Sound. And it had a curl. You could have surfed it. I’ve never seen that on freighter wake before.
I was lucky that I spotted it in time to turn into it. Had it hit us on the stern quarter as it was going to do it could have done serious damage. Even turned into it, we still buried the nose of the boat in the wave, and it shipped green water all along the deck of the boat and up the cabin sides, filling up the area along the toe rail until it drained out the scuppers. And yes, we had a few portlights open, so we got a nice saltwater bath in the head and one berth. Nothing major, just a reminder why we dog those ports down underway.
We popped up quickly through that wave, and slammed down hard on the other side. No harm done to the boat, but it was a big reminder to us of the power we’re dealing with out here.
After collecting ourselves, and starting the drying process, we continued around Point No Point, and all the way to Bainbridge Island and pulled into Eagle Harbor.
I’d heard the new Winslow city dock was nice, and it was. I was hoping that by getting in on Wednesday that the Labor Day Weekend crowd would not be in yet. They were not. We had a big empty dock to hit, and when we tied up at the end we even had a pumpout hose right there.
While on Bainbridge Island, we walked the city and found lots of cool new shops and restaurants. Maybe too many. A city can lose it’s soul.
We also walked on a ferry to downtown Seattle so we could see what it looked like with the viaduct mostly gone. Impressive. After landing we walked up to the Pike Place Market to buy cheese and vegetables from Franks Produce….just like we did when the kids were small.
Finally, Friday…the start of the Labor Day weekend…we sailed for Gig Harbor. I wasn’t sure how many people would be crowded into the harbor, but I was surprised when we got there to find only a small number of boats were out. It was easy to find space to anchor. A few hours after we did, David and Gyung Huntsman pulled in and rafted up to us.
It was great to see them and to be out on the hook with them again. Great friends.
We took our dinghies into the city dock, and walked up for coffee and then to 7 Seas Brewing. After that we walked back to the dinghies so we could motor over to The Tides tavern. This is a legendary bar in Gig Harbor with it’s own dock. If you don’t feel like going in, they will serve you on your boat. Sweet. In truth, we walked by it on the way back to the boats, and could have just walked in. But I told David it would not be the true Gig Harbor “Experience” unless he arrived by boat.
After we did I suspect David would agree.
Sunday morning we were off to head back North. We were going to meet Christian and Kim Monday afternoon, and needed to get up there. We could have waited until Monday to head North, but the wind was supposed to be right Sunday. And when the wind is right, you go.
Winds were funky at first, but finally filled in from the South and we were able to play with the spinnaker and still make the boat move.
After a night on the hook and Blakely Harbor on Bainbridge Island, we crossed over to Bell Harbor Marina on the downtown Seattle waterfront. You have to love a city that has an all transient marina right below the Pike Place Market. You could not ask for better. Weather was perfect for our one evening stop. Christian and Kim came by for a few hours to chat in the cockpit and have drinks.
Then it was bedtime. We had to get up at 5am to push off for Anacortes in one day. We needed to get back to begin the transfer to Endless Song, Due….our trailer to begin the fall sailing….on land. Idaho, Yellowstone, Teton and Moab…here we come.
Last summer as we returned from Alaska in August we found the fabled cruising grounds of Canada’s Desolation Sound a bit, how to put it, overcrowded.
Here we were pulling into legendary Prideaux Haven Marine Park only to find a traffic jam. We were lucky to find one of the last stern tie rings off in little Melanie Cove, one of the side coves off the main basin.
I know what you boaters out there are thinking. “Well, duh. You went at the height of the summer cruising season when Yacht Clubs will send someone out early in the week to anchor, and others will show up later and they’ll all raft up.” In our defense, we were returning from Alaska, and the timing was what it was.
The point is, it’s hard to enjoy the wilderness with a hundred other boats all crammed in every possible anchoring spot and stern tied next to each other all around the rim of what is a lovely protected bay. And no matter how well we all get along out there, if you get 100 boats together, one of the skippers is a jerk who plays music loud and parties late.
I get that July/August is vacation time in Vancouver and Victoria. And also it’s cruising season for all the American boats that come up here too. All the guides and January boat show seminars will tell you, “Yeah, it can get a little busy. Desolation Sound ain’t so desolate in July or August.
So this year, part of the reason we’re up here in May and June is to see just how much less crowded it is when you play just off the main summer season. Are there services? Can you get into marinas without a reservation?
Our working theory was that if you come early, you get all the great cruising with a lot less of the crowds. Friday night, June 7th, we pulled in to popular Prideaux Haven and found this. There are 11 other boats here tonight. There is plenty of room. You don’t need to stern tie unless you want to. You don’t need to anchor near anyone, unless you want to. (There was pack of four 25 foot express sedan boats back in Melanie Cove who were hanging out together)
And this has been the story of our trip.
We’ve had no trouble getting into marinas when we want or need to. We’ve just called on the phone or VHF Radio as we approached and they said, sure come on in….lots of room. We haven’t had to wait at any fuel dock. Every one we approached was wide open. Makes sense if we’re coming in right in the middle of the afternoon. The fishermen and commercial folks are usually filling up early in the day, but in the afternoon it’s mostly cruisers. And there just aren’t that many out here with us in May and early June.
The other cool thing about cruising this early is that traffic jams at the best destinations, or tricky rapids and narrows, aren’t as much of a problem.
Malibu Rapids, the incredibly dangerous tidal rapid at the head of Princess Louisa Inlet intimidates the heck out of boaters; as it should. In the height of season there can be a lot of boats trying to get in and out at the same slack current. And that slack is only so long. Going even 15 minutes early or late is a real challenge for a sailboat or slow displacement cruiser.
First timers are nervous anyway. With all that summertime traffic in an amazingly narrow gap (especially at the low tide slack) your “I don’t know what the heck I’m doing” meter is now starting to peg over to the right, in the red warning area. And in the back of your mind you’re still thinking to yourself, “I wonder if there will even be any room on the Chatterbox Falls dock? If there’s not, I’ll have to try to pick up a buoy at MacDonald Island (Note: The park has added 5 additional mouring bouys up by the falls). If they’re full, Oh God, I have to try to find somewhere to stern tie in here? No not that.”
Spring cruisers don’t have to worry like that.
Malibu Rapids still needs to be respected, wait for slack. But even at mid day slack you’re unlikely to run into more than an handful of boats coming with you….or coming out as you come in. That means everyone will get to go through at or near slack water. When you’re at slack, it’s just a narrow S-curve by the nice Christian youth camp. You even have time to think, “Oh, that’s such a nice looking facility. I bet the kids have a wonderful time up here.”
And when you get up to the head of the inlet, there’s usually lots of parking room for you. If I can’t land it on an empty dock that long….I really shouldn’t be out here.
So, are there downsides to cruising this early in the season?
Well, as we all know, weather in Washington and BC is more unpredictable in the Spring and Fall. You can get some cool rainy days. But you can also get epic weeks long periods of sunny blue skies and balmy temperatures. If you’re prepared for that, and have the time to hunker down if that’s what the weather calls for, the rewards of spring cruising are enormous.
The only other thing to remember is that North of Lund on the Sunshine Coast, mainland BC, and North of Campbell River on the Vancouver Island side, the earlier you are the more likely you’ll run into seasonal resorts and small marinas that aren’t quite up in full operation yet. After Memorial Day you should be fine, but before that it’s worth a phone call while you still have cell service to make sure the place you were planning to do a fuel stop in three days actually has any.